Varto indicates that the dress of ancient Russia is small in its own uniqueness, even if it was the beginning of the life style of the inhabitants of that hour, that thought was set to the utmost navkolishny. The clothes of Ancient Russia were inspired by their own individual style, although some elements were still similar to those of other peoples of the world.
Otzhe, old Russian clothes, the following characteristics:
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- Clothes for the skin inhabitant of Russia were an indispensable attribute, to that one, having protected the body from the cold that sinter, and also having saved his volodar from evil spirits, to protect him. As a talisman, people wore all sorts of embellishments, amulets, and robed embroidery in speeches.
- I princes, and simple people wore a similar robe for their household. All the same, there was a bula - in materials, from which clothes were sewn. For example, among the villagers, especially the expansion of the letters of the clothes, and the axis of the princes for these purposes zastosovuvali materials that were brought from distant overseas lands.
- If you talk about children, then the stench at that hour wore their own old shirts. As a rule, the childish dressed up from the old father's speeches. On the right, in what had been a long-standing belief, it was like talking about those who dressed up the fathers, protecting children.
- The inhabitants of Ancient Russia already believed in those who, while wearing clothes, absorb the strength of a person and that spirit. For the very same clothes for the lads of the zdebіsh were sewn from the clothes of the father, and for the girls - from the clothes of the mother.
Clothes for women
The main warehouse of a woman’s clothes is a shirt or a shirt. If you talk about a shirt, then it was respected by the lower white, as it was customary to sew from thick and coarse fabrics. And the axis of the shirt, navpak, the inhabitants of Ancient Russia sewed with thin and light materials, which, as a rule, could be afforded by representatives of the highest class. The girls were dressed in linen robes, which they called "zapona". Such speeches were a piece of cloth, folded navpіl z virіzom for the head.
To be more specific, they put a band on a shirt, with which it was taken out. The other women wore a “pommel” (to go about the robe of a stony character). Such speeches were sewn from expensive materials, there was a lot of embroidery here. Speaking more specifically, the representations of the variant will guess the current tunic. The apex could be worn like with sleeves, so without them, the dozhina could also be different.
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The women wore special hoods for the winter coat, and one shirt for the jacket. As it was said about the saint, then in days it was customary to wear long sleeves. So they had a bula and poneva, that they guessed the present day. The different tribes were small in their ponies: some, having respected for better wearing a blue cage, some - red.
Man's robe at Old Russia
Wardrobe cholov_k_v folded from shirts, trousers and belts. Dovzhina's hands were practically knee-deep, so shirts needed to be re-dressed. Varto signify that in the sleeves of the shirt it is also the fault of the bula to go overboard for help. The men wore an upper shirt, which is usually called a red shirt or a top.
If you talk about pants, then the stench of the boules is not too wide. The trousers of men were not small for the beast of the year, they were pulled at the waist for an additional sock. If you talk about warriors, then the stench of small special shkiryan paska with plaques made of metal. The princes dressed in robes, sewn from expensive fabrics. Varto means that the hem of the princes was sheathed with an oblyamіvka of gold color and beautiful vizierunki. Komiri is also a little golden zabarvlennya.
Deputy inhabitants of Old Russia wore belts adorned with silver and gold. Zvichayno, the clothes of ancient Russia were not worn without such an important accessory as if it were a breeze. Chobots were embroidered with sap'yan, sometimes they were embroidered with gold threads. Noble people can wear a high hat with a knotted sable. Such a hat took off the name "hood".
Video: Kievan Rus: clothes, traditions, culture
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Do you see what women wore in Old Russia? And what was allowed to wear people? What did the common people wear in Old Russia, what did the boyars wear? On qі and іnshі not less than qіkavі nutrition you will know vіdpovіdі at statti.
Why do you have shirts
- "I know why there is a fool here," - let's say at once, having recognized the correct reason for this chi іnshої podії. And the axis for the hour of Kievan Rus tse meant scho zovsіm іnshe. On the right, in the fact that the clothes were costly at the same time, they took care of them, and that the shirt served the hospodar yakomog more, and for the sake of mіtsnostі they zmіtsnyu with a lining, so that they were drunk. You can admit that the ironic subtext of the cei viraz sang at the link with tim, that the poor deacons boasted of rich garments, and yet they saw frills, sewn from cheap fabrics. Adzhe clothes of Old Russia, serving as a warming, and reinforcing your social status. The shirt is of little importance here. The nobility wears a lower robe, for the poor often - single, crimson ports and bast shoes. In addition, the commoner's shirt was significantly short, so that it did not fetter the rukhіv.
Ornament in the street
The boyars did not work in the field, they could afford to wear an undergarment that was not up to the knee. Ale is independent of that, bіdny ti chi rich, on a shirt mav buti a belt. The word "rozperezavsya" got used to the sensi, but it is not enough to be so negative in itself. In addition, on the tsіy part of the robe, it was already a bazhaniy ornament. Yogo vіzerunki guarded against the filthy eye and other inaccuracies. Death was a frequent guest at the village huts. Todi at the vzhitok came "bіdolashnі" shirts. They were white with a white embroidery, as if the fathers were dying, they were embroidered with black vizerunkas, as if a complaint about children. The leather part of the garment is of little ritual significance. If the widows yelled at the village, zapobіgayuchi yogo in such misfortunes, like cholera or wіdminok thinness, the stench was simple-haired, without a fuss, in white, without everyday embellishment shirts.
Shirts were not assigned to such vipadkіv, comira stinks were small. On holy yogo it was so called namisto, as if it was stuck in the back on the gudzik. Such a commander went up to be some other dress. And I found such a different kind of shirt, like a kosovorotka. Vaughn appeared as early as the 9th century, and was worn right up to the 20th century. A cloth with a small opening for the head and a virizom on the left side of the breasts - the axis and everything. It's just that practical.
Firanka on the ground
Okremo shirts were rarely worn. At the center and pіvnochі of Russia they put on a sundress for the beast, and in the pіvnі - a pony. What is poneva? In Old Russia, there was a kind of back, which was only made up of not one, but three woven or insulated cloths, pulled together at the waist with a damper. This belt will signify that the woman is friendly. They were dark in color, with a reddish blue color, more black. On weekdays they sewed a tasma or a red lace at the bottom, and at the saint they took out a screen of cloth, the hem of which was embellished with a rich embroidered yakomoga.
Women at that time had a hard time with rich senses. Clothes are not to blame here. The peculiarity of the woman’s attire of Old Old Russia was those who, over the mustache of the refurbished visor, wore an apron, which was called a curtain, and completing the Russian costume of linen, lining, or nap_vvovnyany shushpan.
Six kilograms on the head
Clean the head of the woman to merit for the hell of a riddle. At the zamіzhnyoї zhіnki vіn vіg vіg reach sіsіkіlogramovoї vaga. Golovna, that the construction was completely curled up. The people believed for a long time that the stink of Chaklun's strength. The basis of the canvas was strengthened with a spinning or birch bark, so that a hard forehead part appeared. Tse y was called kіkoy, yak was completed with a hood made of calico, oksamitu chi kumach. The pottilia was covered with a positive, upright swarthy fabric. In total, such a “cap” could include twelve parts. You can wrap a round hooded hat on the head of a word, but cover the hair with a hooded hat. On the saint's heads was a kokoshnik with a bottom made of material and a base made of solid material. Ring out the veins that are covered with golden cloth and sheathed with pearls.
The girls had it much easier. The head band in Ancient Russia is similar to a bandage, a hoop or a crown. Like such a wreath with rich embellishments, it was called a coruna. Zhorstka, often a metal base, covered with embroidered fabric, which was fashionable in the Mishkins. In the villages, girls' vines were simpler. The people were allowed to wear round hats with a cunning rim. Vivts, polar foxes and foxes went to the trick. They also wore sun-dried hats and kovpaki in everyday life. Sound its shape was cone-shaped, and the top is rounded. They sewed them out of linen and outside, and also knitted them. Skullcaps made of sables could only be afforded by princes and nearby boyars.
Clothes for nig
The legs were gagged with cloth made of linen and cloth, and in tsі onuchi they were dressed as a bed of chi koti, shkіryanі chereviks. And to the greatest shkiryanim vzutty in Russia were pistons. They robbed them from a solid piece of shkir, which they picked up along the edge with a remin. The bast shoes on the face were even more unpredictable. They wore them in the countryside for no more than ten days. On the Russian brukivkas, the stinks were more snobby. That's why there were more widened posts of zі shkіryanyh remіntsіv. Metal plates were often sewn on them, which looked like their own sandals.
At the same time, the most traditional vzuttyam in Russia are vvazhayutsya feltings. But really, the stinks appeared less at the 19th century and were more expensive. Ring out at the sim'ї bula there was only one pair of felt boots. They wore them deep. The chobots were swollen wide earlier. They sewed zі shkіri however for people and women. The nobility used to wear boots made of sap'yanu, goat's coats, soaked in cotton wool and polished with stone, yuft, tovstoy shkir, that opium, calf's shkir. Іnshі name chobit - іchigi and boots. The laces, like tied with laces, were like women's boots. Heels on them appeared only in the 16th century and could reach 10 centimeters.
Ports to pants
If you talk about trousers, then the whole word came to Russia from the Turks here in the 17th century. Until now, clothes for nig were called ports. They robbed them not too wide, they were tight-fitting. Between two trousers, for ease of walking, they sewed in a gusset. Dovzhina's first pants were worn right up to the gomіlka, de refueled in onuchi. For noble people they sewed a jacket from taffeta, and a collection from cloth. There were no annual gudzikivs, but there were no roses for them. On the quilts, the ports were trimmed with a cord. Schos is similar to pants in the current common sense of the word viniklo in Russia for Peter I.
You can't live without pants in Russia
The great significance of clothes among the Russians was, of course, determined by the climate. You can’t go to the street without trousers, like at Rome and Constantinople. That upper garment of Ancient Russia is rich in what it was like being in the greater European lands. Vyhodyachi on the street, dressed in the warmth of their long retinue of cloth. Their sleeves were cuffed with cuffs, and the collar was with an open comir. The stench stagnated for additional buttonholes. Tse is typical for the old Russian clothes. Richer people have introduced captans from axamita and oxamita into fashion. Zipun is a variety of kaptan without comir. The boyars dressed him with a lower robe, and the common people wore a nadvir. The word "zhupan" is immediately vvazhaetsya by the Polish chi, but it got used to in Russia from long ago. Tse that itself is honor, but shorter, dozhina troch below the waist. Well, obviously, speaking about winter, you can’t help but guess about tricky. It is necessary to say that dressed with hutra, that yoga kіlkіst was not a sign of wealth. There was more than enough fur in the forests. Fur coats were sewn in the middle by craftsmanship. They wore it not only in the cold, but also in the snail, wind it on the occupants. You can guess the historical films and the seat of the boyars in fur coats and tricky hats.
Davnyoruska sheepskin coat
One sign of goodwill in our hour is a sheepskin coat. And the axis of the words'yan is such a dress - a casing - bov practically into a skin booth. Robiley її zі shkіri kozlі or sheep hutrom in the middle. On the villagers, it is often possible to wear a sheepskin casing. As if ordinary people were wearing a hood, then the boyars were free to cover their animals with a foreign, dear mother. Tse could buti, for example, Byzantine brocade. The casings of the dozhina, according to the knee, turned into casings. Women wore them.
And the axis of another variety of man's winter clothes was forgotten by ancient Russia. For example, an Armenian. A bunch of wines from the positions of the Tatars and sewed from a camel's skin. Ale tse bulo was somehow exotic, before that, the sheep on the outside did not show up like a girsh. They dressed the coat over the casing, there was no way to zip it up. Khіd ishov has one more indispensable attribute of the old Russian wardrobe: a belt.
One of the oldest words of the Yansk shat is epancha. This is a round raincoat with a hood, ale without sleeves. Arriving from Arabs and guessing navit at the "Words about the departure of Igor". From the 16th century, it became a cape, which was dressed in tracts of gorges, and for the field marshalship of Suvorov, the pancha became part of a soldier's and officer's uniform. Ochaba was worn by people from great ranks. Aja was sewn yoga with brocade and oxamita. Especially okhabnyu boules were oversized long sleeves, which were thrown behind the back, de tied with a knot. On Great Day, noble boyars went to the service of the feriz. Tse buv is already the height of luxury, the royal ceremonial attire.
Let's make such a dress for all camps, like a single row. Tse rіznovid kaptan, ale dovgostate and with gudzikami to the hem. It was sewn from colorful cloth, without comir.
At the dressing gown and fur coats
Fashionistas paid more attention to fur coats with decorative sleeves. The stench was long and retractable, and for the hands were assigned holes in the waist. A lot of sightings of the Russian costume were self-made. For example, you can induce soul-growth. For the peasant women, there was a holy day, and for the greater ladies - every day. Soul warmer - vіlna, a tie in the front of the robe, which rarely reached the middle of the quilt in the dovzhina. Sewn up with expensive fabrics and garniture visor. Shugay is just another type of short, fitted outer garment, which makes a sweater. The moment of mother is a cunning comir. The local sackcloths of the locality wore an outer garment and a rich fabric. The chroniclers tell a riddle about the dressing gowns worn by the prince's daughters. For commoners, stink, maboot, boules marvelously.
Z lion ta serm'yagi
The fabrics, from which they sewed robes, did not arouse the great versatility. Flax and hemp were found on the shirts. The upper, consignment note was worn, and the heat was almost prepared from coarse serm'yagi and sheepskin. Step by step, representatives of noble families made daedals larger than seam fabrics from Byzantium. The uzhitok included brocade and oxamite.
Cloak that power
For a long time, obov'yazkovym subject of the Russian wardrobe, especially knyazivsky, cloak. Vіn buv is sleeveless, draped over the shoulders, and the white shiї was cleaved into a fibula. They wore cloaks of stink. Vіdminnіst looked like fabric and in the fact that common people did not vicorate brooches. The first variety of raincoats is votol, made of dewy fabrics. The votola could be worn by diggers and princes. And the axis of the bluegrass is just a sign of a high hike. For psuvannya tsgogo cloak pіd hour bіyki navit imposing a fine. For a hundred years of mint, you can spend more time on chants, less on mіsk dandies. And the axis of the litopists will be able to guess, only if they want to support the princely life of Yogo Volodar. More than anything, such a cloak was not given the right to wear near the boyars. Vіdomy vіpadok, if vіn vyryatuvav vіd izomіbeli. For some reason, the prince wanted to bury someone, over whom the sword had already been brought. I threw a basket over the new one.
Canvas
What is linen cloth? At the same time, not a skin person knows how to get food. And in pre-Mongolian Russia, we will widen the clothing of cloths to the greatest extent among the nobility, and among the common people. Lyon and hemp - first growth, which began to vicorize for the preparation of fabrics and garments, mainly shirts and ports. The girls in those days wore a band. Just seeming, a piece of cloth, which they folded navpіl and robbed virіz for the head. They put it on over the shirt and put it on. The daughters of the most possible families had fine materials, while the Rashti had coarse materials, which made sackcloth. The shirt on the outside was called a sackcloth, the wool was rough on the floor, which we wore chentz for a humble body.
Chi uvіyde ohaben v fashion
A lot of things from the wardrobe of ancient women of fashion and chepuruniv, having changed a little, have been preserved to this day, but it has become not so accessible. The same casing of the garnier vibration can cost like an inexpensive car. Khutryana dushogrіya tezh in the gut is far from being a skin woman. And it’s unlikely that you want to wear the axis of wearing a single row at a time. If the fashion seems to turn around.
Russian national brands - ce many colors and a great number of details that create a complete image. It was possible to understand how many provinces the village came from when one was wearing it. In addition, the Russian cleverness for the special skin condition created dissimilar one-on-one urochist selections. About the history of the national costume and the details that they create, you can find out in this article.
Features of the national costume
Russian traditional selections were always shared at every Christmas day. Our forefathers more clearly adorned simple robes made of coarse fabrics with a minimal amount of decorative elements, such as barvy outfits for special occasions. The most expensive dress in red color.
Back in Russia, all the costumes were created by touching woman's hands from home-woven materials. There was also a lot of picking up special ones. The main materials for sewing outfits were cloth, linen and shovk. The role of the lining was made into a kindyak, special fabric for the lining.
The fabric base was supplemented with a great number of details, as well as accessories and swirls, which created a harmonious image at the complex.
Numerous images of the day were waking up among themselves, fallow in the regions. So, for example, people from the pivnіchnyh regions of Russia dressed up in a large number of upper garments. Vaughn was like a roztіbnoy, so it was a cape, and in deaky twilights, two or more outfits were seen to be together. The cape robe was dressed over the head, at that hour, as if it were fastened on hudzicki or gachko-like fasteners.
For the honor of merit, and clothes for the nobility. Vaughn, obviously, was more expensive and more expensive. Clothing for the nobility was embroidered with gold or silver threads, embellished with pearls and other decorative elements. Such a road vbrannya was worn more than one river. As a rule, yogo was passed from generation to generation, taking it from the watchful eye.
History of the Russian costume
For an hour of its foundation, the national Russian costume practically did not change. Understanding the modi bulo is less minimal, lower at the same time, so the very same style could be worn by a generation of one family.
Smaller extensions to the traditional Russian style became on the cob of the eighteenth century. Todi old-Russian costume of fences by Peter the First, who wanted to make Russia a modern one. Costumes in the Ugrian style came to replace the national odeas, and later the German and French ones. In order for the innovations to take root, the emperor used to wear traditional Russian outfits at the place.
Zhіnochiy
The outfits for the women were always chic and different for the people. The stench of the boulevards was the spravzhnі zrazki of the mysticism of the talented Russian women. For hours in Old Russia, a woman's costume was folded from shirts (simple shirts on a pidlog), a sundress and an apron. Often, for additional warmth, one more shirt was dressed under the shirt.
An invisible part of any traditional selection was always a vishivka. In the skin province, it was wafted with kvіts and vіzerunki. The sleeves were embellished with embroidery.
Merit for the respect of cloth, as worn by women in Russia. During the hours of Ivan the Terrible, the girls, like they got into nothing more than one cloth, came in obscene. It was customary to put on three cloths, one over the other. Such a suit looked even more important and massive.
Cholovichy
For people from a simple background, the suits were sewn practical and comfortable. Russian culture has always been invisible to the nature of the earth. It was dressed up in a simple peasant dress, which was sewn from natural fabrics and embellished with growing tassels.
A man's suit was folded from a simple shirt, pants and belts. The sinner's head was covered with felted fur. Zuttya the most wide boulli post. Light and easy, the stench kindly protected the legs for an hour of work on the field, but for the winter they were not appendages. With the advent of cold weather, the traditional Russian costume was supplemented with felt boots, and with saints - shkiryan chobits.
For children
Children in Old Russia wore simple robes. As a rule, the shirts were plain and simple. Vishukanish were created for the children of the nobles. Sometimes the stench practically replicated an overgrown suit. Ale young girls, at the sight of grown-up women, did not wear headdresses until winter.
Features and meaning of details
As it was appointed, the details of the national Russian costume played an important role.
Details of a human costume
The basis of the national human costume was a simple shirt. In the outfits of ordinary villagers, the boule was the basis of the costume at that hour, as the nobility wore її like a white coat. Vaughn sewed on a leon shirt. In the middle of the front and the back of the shirt, they were supplemented with a lining, as they called underwear. The wide sleeves of the shirt sounded to the penzle.
Zovnishnіy looking brothers perked up. Vіn mіg buti rounded, square or zovsіm vіdsutnіm. Even though the comir is still buv, then the wine is supplemented with ties or gudziks.
Also, the costume was supplemented with such details, like a zipun, fear that ohaben. All speeches are different types of captans. Over the shirt of that captana, a scroll was pulled on, a casing or a serm'yaga. For urochistih vipadkіv vikoristovuval ceremonial cloak (korzno) or a single row of woolen fabric.
Popular fur coats. The villagers wore simple clothes made of thick sheepskin or hare hutra. Representatives of the greater camp allowed themselves to be dressed in outfits made of black fox, sable and marten.
To keep warm in the middle, fur coats were sewn in the middle. The stinks of the stench were grimacing with a thick cloth. Dresses for the nobility were embroidered with brocade and oxamite. Luxurious fur coats, putting on a wide furry coat.
Traditional fur coats in the Russian style were worn on the front. The sleeves were also too long, and the hands were not only worn through them, but at the special holes that were ruffled in front. They wore not only a brisket, but also a snail for the creation of a urochist image.
Another important detail of a human Russian costume is the headdress of the national style. There were many different types of hats: tafya, klobuk, murmolka and triukha.
Tafya was wearing a small round cap, as if she snuggled up to her head. Over її often they dressed a simple hat. Simple people chose options for povst, rich people - for oxamite.
Murmolkas were called hats that are high and expand to the top. Throat caps were created following a similar principle. They only embellished them with tricks, which went out of the throat. A fox, a sable, or a hare cleverly at once, having embellished his hat and turned his head.
Details of a woman's costume
The basis of the female national costume was also a shirt. Vaughn was embellished with embroidered or embroidered oblyamіvkoy. Honored Russian women over a simple undershirt dressed in peace, sewn from a bright seam. The most beautiful option is to lay a shirt in a red color.
On top of the shirts, the women dressed the breeches. The old-fashioned vbrannya dozhina in the pidlog was created with a seam and supplemented with fasteners for the throat itself. Noble women wore a spruce, embellished with gold embroidery or pearls, and embellished their bras with namistos.
A fur coat was a warm alternative to a summer coat in a national woman's costume. For a long time, a fur coat with decorative sleeves embellished with cunning was a sign of luxury, but it did not look especially practical. Hands either stretched out in special openings under the sleeves, or the sleeves themselves, as if they were poked for shruchnost. Warmth of the valleys can be bulo in the muff, as it was not only embellished with a cunning galyavitsa, but it was stitched with a cunning in the middle.
An important role was played by such a detail of the costume, like a headdress. Mustache zamіzhnі zhіnki in Russia obov'yazkovo tucked in hair, winding up resting at home. They poked their heads with a hairdresser or a cloak, tying the wild animal with a shag khustka.
More erratic looking vіnochki (wide po'yazki, dopovnіnі dovgoh kvіtchastimi strіchki), yakі wore blouse. Hats were changed by the farmer's hats. Ale, the traditional Russian dosi costume is often associated with us with a kokoshnik - a shaggy headdress with a fan. According to the ability of wines, richly embellished and becoming the main addition to the brand.
National motifs in modern fashion ethnic style
If you want a traditional costume with only a part of the rich Russian history, a lot of designers will add some details when creating modern outfits. Ethnic style is now in the trend, so give respect to such clothes as a leather fashionista.
Cloths in the Russian style can be streamlined, even vulgarity, short backs and an overly deep neckline are simply unrefined here. One of the main values of our ancestors was the value. Little girls dress modestly and strimano, not showing off their bodies. Such a combination in the Russian ethnic style is created for this very principle.
In this hour, the fashion for traditional Russian clothes is going through another people. There are impersonal speeches, as if they knew modern people only from old books and fairy tales. A number of peasant costumes, popular in Russia, are often worn and traditional robes of ancient words, which served as a prototype for the usual words of Jansk costumes in the late hour.
Irrespective of those women and men's costumes of that era, they are clearly described in historical practice, the fashion designers respect that it is enough to put on a shirt the word "Janian viserunok" so that it is national. Really, it's just a modern dress for the word'Janian style, which doesn't have any historical authenticity.
A look at the ancient history of the word'jansk costume
The clothes of ancient words were not predicted by anything, whether they were from traditional costumes, which are so popular at once. At the link with them, that most of the people lived in the wilderness, and trade caravans came in there, clothes were robbed of animal skins. After that, like Ancient Rome, having begun to conquer the peaceful barbarian lands, the words began to know the dress of cloth. Vtіm, it was available only for leaders and noble warriors, because it was expensive to do it.
Even though the middle of the last words of the speech and fabrics ceased to be visible, then the clothes of the similar words of the ancient times are cunning. With the expansion of Roman culture and trade, words took away the year to reach civilization. Natomist skins of savage animals, the stench took away the cloths and cloths. After a deaky hour, the words themselves learned how to spin speeches from the outside, leon and hemp.
In the winter wordy style of the Yanian style, the hutra played the main role, and step by step the stench was played with warm speeches from the natural outside. Zvazhayuchi on archeological excavations, lyon and wool served as the head syrovina for the casual clothes of ordinary people.
The traditional costume of a man of the word'yansky family was formed from the forward main parts:
- Simple shirts;
- Portok chi pants;
- Scrolls of abo kaptan.
As a rule, we will wear each one or we will smell it. The shirt was sewn with a tunic-like look, with long sleeves. Before the shirt, the belt was put on in obov'yazkovo, like a sackcloth was lifted up. The simplest clothes were worn by poor farmers, and the nobility embellished their shirts with embroidery. As a rule, there was a word-yansk symbolism that carried a deep sacral zmist. In addition, such shirts are small with ribbons, used for tightening sleeves at the wrist.
Trousers were worn with a narrow cut and a collar to the ankles. In order to prevent the stench from subsiding, a special hat was worn, called a belt. A shirt and pants without an overcoat were worn more importantly in the heat of the year. As it got colder, it was necessary to put on a scroll or a captan. Honor words over the captan were often worn in a corset, pidbite with an easy trick.
Vzimka was worn by casings and fur coats. For the rest, then, regardless of the broader thought, the fur coat is the clothes of the steppe nomads, the traditional word "yansky wine".
As simple as the earth-workers had less than one suit, then the nobility wore and holy clothes, like richly embellished. Such a suit is thinly embroidered and richly embroidered.
Dress the words of the Jansk women and embellish them differently
Although the slov'yanki did not wear pants, the broadest part of the wardrobe was a long shirt. At the sight of everyday speeches, women's shirts were often embellished with the following elements:
- Rіznoy embroidered;
- Tesmy;
- Scenes from life or mythological birds and creatures.
Wanting to be hardened in such dzherelah, that straight old cloths or sarafans, like women sewed themselves independently, dressed on a bare body, in fact, all the clothes were dressed exclusively on the lower shirt. Like a warm outer garment, the women sounded cloaks, coats, or fur coats. The more it was smart for a woman, the more she won for status.
As headdresses, women wore different headbands, headbands and garlands. Often it was embellished with different plates, embroidery and traditional ornaments. Headdresses, traditional for the Russian costume, kokoshniks have appeared in the middle of the Russian language. The first kokoshniks were known during excavations near Novgorod and date back to 10-11 centuries.
If women's embellishments were worn, then words were worn by specific skronevі kіltsya. Krim tsgogo, often embellished like this:
- Namysto different colors;
- Namista;
- Massive bracelets;
- Kiltsya and persni.
Wanting to often show words in films with massive and folding rings on the fingers, the jewelery on the right in Ancient Russia was slightly torn, because the rings were struck by simplicity.
Children in Russia dressed themselves just like their fathers. The main element of the child's costume was a long shirt. While the boys wore trousers, the girls wore sarafans. At that hour, like a grown-up, everyday robe, more embellishments were embellished with embroideries, children’s speeches were embellished with their own special embellishments. So, as the death rate of children in the presence of ailments was already great, the skin of the mother was smeared with threads of red color, I will protect the embroidery from ancient runes and signs.
Another special feature of the child's garments were special bubonts, which were woven into the hair of the girls, and the boys were sewn on headdresses.
The child vzuttya so bulo barvishim. Often different ornaments were stitched, stitches and inserts from color threads. Traditionally, it was more shocking for the girls.
Features of the Russian folk costume
In this hour, the oldest Russian costumes, which have been preserved in museums to this day, are dated on the cob of the 18th century. Deyakі zrazki were kept in private collections, and deyakі were passed on like a memory from rich village families. Before the hour of the formation of the Radian power in Russia, a lot of rich peasants were repressed or hanged, so they didn’t save their clothes.
With one more dzherel, which can be judged, as if looking at the clothes of our ancestors, is literature. Behind the pictures and descriptions from old books, you can look, as if looking at the Russian costume of the 16-17th centuries. The best-looking clothes can only be recognized by archaeologists, as with the help of modern technologies, they can designate not only the best-looking fabric, but also the warehouse and embroider.
Judging by the knowledge of archaeologists, the Russian suit on the cob of the 18th century is approximately the same. One and the same style along with stitched like simple villagers, and noble boyars. Only the boyar could allow himself to speak with expensive fabrics and a husky fur coat. In addition, yogo could be worn once on a high beaver hat, only noble people could wear it.
A strong shkoda was inflicted on the traditional Russian dress by Peter the Great, who made the boyars dress up like an old age. After that, the Russian costume was left behind the middle of the peasantry, merchants and philistines. True, after a certain hour, Katerina Druga revived the “a la Russ” fashion, but it didn’t help much, for the nobility at that hour called to different suits of European cut.
Stop ringing Russian costumes on the cob of the 20th century near the villages, or else on the wedding of that great saint.
Head features of the Russian costume
Traditional costumes, like victorious ones, were made in the Russian provinces right up to the end of the 19th century - on the cob of the 20th century, richly spherical, especially female models. On top of their robe, the foreign women dressed them with a blanket. The already betrothed girl could have dressed the pan. The whole Russian robe is small so sleepy rice:
- Clothes ring with a letter of a free cut. Tse allowed to dility її only a little bit of the main expansions. As a rule, the color is childish and grown-up. Schob p_dіgnati її for a particular person, the system of inserts of those rіznyh strings was victorious;
- Whether a suit of footwear has such a binding element, like a belt. Its main function was to lift the clothes. In addition, Russian men themselves put knives and sokiri into their belts. In some parts of Russia, belts were embroidered with protective ornaments and symbols;
- Vishivka was the key element of the Russian national costume. Behind these vіzerunkami it was possible to recognize as tribal belonging, and th social status;
- Svyatkovy costumes are adorned with beauty and variety of different inserts, glints and beaded embellishments. Everyday work clothes, as a rule, were of a gray color;
- Headdresses were respected by an invisible part of a man’s and a woman’s robe. The most famous headdress of foreign women is the kokoshnik. This holy item of clothing, in spite of the broadening of the mind, was not worn at the pobuti. The kokoshnik's vaga in deyaky vipadki could reach 5 kg.
Dressed in Russia, vvazhavsya great value, then passing like grown up to children, and th sprat of generations.
Features of a woman's costume in Russian pivdniy and middle smuz
The main element of the Russian women's costume of the pivdnya of Russia was that dovga llana and linen shirt. From above they pulled on her poneva. It used to be so that the deputy would not dress up andorak, like a wide back on tasma or gumts. On top, dressed with a zapon and an apron. Like the head ubir, the kika that magpie was victorious. All women's clothes were richly embellished with embroidery. The Ryazan costumes were the most beautiful, and the raven villagers embroidered their speeches with black threads.
At the middle smuz of Russia, clothes were folded from shirts, a sundress and an apron. Serving as a headdress kokoshnik and zvichayna khustka. In the pіvnіchnyh districts, hutryanі sins and fur coats were often worn. The leather province was famous for its majstrins, who were right in some kind of needlework:
- The most beautiful kokoshniks scrambled near Siberia;
- In the Arkhangelsk province, the best merzhevs were robbed;
- Tverskoy has the finest gold embroidery.
Wealthy women from the merchant's camp prayed for the elements of their choice in different little corners of Russia.
Traditional human robe in Russia
The traditional man's robe in Russia is not as versatile as a woman's. The main element of the costume was a dovga shirt. On the vіdmіnu vіd vіd old slov'janskih natіlnyh shirts, tsі small oblique virіz levoruch. For that very reason, they were called kosovorotki. Prote Pivdnі kraїni often zustrichalis and straight virіzi.
The pants were narrow, although wide models were still worn in the rural middle. Trimalized at the waist pants for the rahunok with a special tasmy, as they are called gashnik. According to the material, the pants were made from linen or outerwear. One-colored colors and a woman's coat were carried over. Near pivdennih areas, the Cossacks wore more traditional bloomers, yakі could be blue or red color.
Dosi having become popular with a wide belt, which is often embellished with embroidery. Before that, gamants, little bears with a tutyun and other dribnets could be attached. In the middle class of Russia and in the countryside, people often wore vests. Particularly popular is this element worn by merchants and foreign villagers. Headdresses made of cloth were widely worn. In the late hour of cloth, soft hats were everywhere covered with caps.
Russian folk shirt and special features
Starting from quiet hours, if on the territory of modern Russia they began to sew robes from fabric, the main element of the costume was a long shirt. They were worn by everyone, from the small to the great, without respect for the age and social camp. The shirts were of the same cut, only dazed by the fineness of the fabric and the richness of the embroidery. By vishivtsi it was possible to understand what a person would become. A child's clothes often changed from a grown-up one.
Usі russian shirts are small so spilnі risi:
- The kriy robe was more simple, and the shirt itself was more spacious;
- Under the paws, they inserted a gusset;
- The sleeves were sewn too long, it used to be that the stench curled up the whole hand and fingers. Especially long sleeves were worn by a woman and a child attire;
- The shirts were long, the female models often fell short of the logs. Human models could reach up to knees and never refueled to pants;
- Girls and women could often sew their own shirt from two different ones for the same quality of materials. The upper part, which was on the uvaz, was sewn from expensive fabrics and richly embellished with embroideries, and the lower part was made from simple fabrics;
- Most of the shirts were embellished with embroidery, moreover, it won't have much value. Tsі vіzerunki bіlіnnіm pagans, i іvnі vіlnі buli to protect people from evil spirits;
- They wore work shirts, holy days and rituals.
Holy and ritual speeches were often passed down from generation to generation.
After the lower shirt, the widest element of the woman's attire in the middle and pivnіchnіy smuz of Russia is a sundress. Until the 18th century, sarafans were worn by all versions of the Russian society. After the reforms of Peter the Great, sarafani began to be worn only among the peasants. Right up to the middle of the 20th century, sarafans were worn out as the only shabby woman's robe of women in Russia.
Judging by the excavations of archaeologists, the first sarafani appeared around the 14th century. Most often, shabby and embellished sarafans were worn at the holy place at the same time by kokoshniks, as if they were even more important.
Today's fashion often turns to the traditional Russian style. Embroidered shirts and sundresses can be worn on the streets of everyday life. Hush, that the fashion designers of the country have ceased blindly copying the casual clothes, and more and more often they draw inspiration from Russian traditions.
The costume of a person is a whole complex, which you will wear in your own body, not only clothes, but also embellish, accessories, cosmetics and a haircut. The suit has a practical and aesthetic function, which helps people to organize their own lives, work with other people. Clothes of endowments with a wide stake of significance and functions. Vaughn is a showcase of status, age, family, social, camp, mine camp, ethnic, regional, confessional power, family to occupy people, yoga of ritual roles.
Culture of Russian places 13-15 centuries. bula polyetnіchnoy, the words 'yanskі, finno-Ugric, zahіdnі and skhіdnі elements, which could not help but add to the costume of the townspeople, were mixed up - it was the name of the interpenetration of cultures. At the robot, the Russian costume of the old Russian princedoms - Moscow, Tver, Volodymyr and Suzdal, from the sunken dzherel dry lands will be seen. Special respect was attached to the costume of the Vyatichi tribe. Until the end of the XIII century. the whole tribe still preserves its self-sufficient culture, like a strong, but a small country. Over the course of the year, these lands moved to the warehouse of the Moscow, Chernigiv, Rostov-Suzdal and Ryazan princedoms. Kurgani Vyatichi XII-XIII cent. give rich materials for reconstruction to the survivors of the costume of pre-Mongolian Rus.
At 13-14 Art. the role of the Christian church in Russian places is strengthened, which is confirmed by archaeological knowledge (a number of objects of pagan cults are sharply shortened). To the one who has the opportunity to look at us, the costume of the Russian Christian population of Russia is in front of us. Nutrition about the language of the vіruvannya, which were spared, and their appearance in costumes 13-15 st. too foldable and richly faceted, and here it is not clearly seen.
Shards of archeological evidence show that the ancient Russian costume has changed little since the 12th century. and to the Mongolian heap, ts_y robots have a costume of the 13th century. zaluchenі dzherel XII century.
In these robots, a complex method of work was established with archeological, imaginative, writing and other synchronous dzherels according to the costume of the previous period. Be-yak reconstruction - tse, first for all concept, the stage of high equalization of that complex volodinny material. Reconstruction of the historical costume of the beginning of the hypothesis through the imperfection of the records. To whom the proof of the creation of the costume and the further proof, that the process of wearing it, may be undoubtedly valuable for the seniors who are engaged in the history of the middle Russian fashion.
The mentality of people is formed not only from the fact that people worked and knew, but also from the fact that they worked day after day for primal, practical schemes, about which nothing was specially thought about. That is why the boyar and the villager have a different mentality not only through informational powers, but also through those who stench in a different way collapsed, or, dressed skinny. Bringing back the mentality of the middle-class people in the first place is an impossible task for a historian, to bring up all available dzherel. But for the help of the implementation of practices (for example, the process of preparing clothes, wearing a thin suit) you can get close to the reconstruction of the habitus. Poednannya rozumovoї model, as I create ideas on the basis of dzherel, that material model allows us to get as close as possible to the rozumіnnya life that will remind our ancestors.
Lower robe
There was no bleeding in the modern day in Old Russia. Without any middle on the body, the people dressed the bottom shirt and bottom pants. The letters of the dzherel conveyed to us the words that in the middle ages were called the lower shirt (and man and woman) - shirt, srachitsya, srochino, urgent, shirt. The chronicle tells about Prince Yury's flight after the Battle of Lipetsk (1216) reads: "Prince Yury came to Volodymyr about noon, on the fourth horse, and having three of them puffed at the first shirt, laying down and that wyverg ...". Tobto, before the hour of the leak, the prince took off his entire upper robe and upper shirt, having lost himself in one lower one - “the first shirt”, moreover, to wind a vider (“twisting”) from it a pіdkladka - pіdґruntya.
The undershirt was sewn from bleached linen, made to sound at home. Sewing shirts for the members of the family was respected by the housewife on the right. Shards of the lower garment were often worn, they didn’t embroider the fabric and practically didn’t embellish it, even the middle clothes would ruin the embroidery, the color trims would fade, zipping the shirt.
The cіkavі danі, induced by the deceased of the funeral costume of the Upper Volga Stepanova Yu.V. Only in one of the graves were chotiri bronze gudziks, obviously, ruffled vertically, on their chests (Stepanova Yu.V. Details of the cut of an old Russian robe for the materials of the funeral memorials of the Upper Volga // Integration of archaeological and ethnographic scientific materials. . Nalchik, Kiev University, 2001. - S. 236-239.).
Given the knowledge, it is allowed to admit that the men were wearing dressed shirts of a deaf cut with a small opening of the neck, which zastіbaetsya on the buzzer. Otzhe, maybe, from the other half of the XI century. the process of molding the traditional Russian folk costume of a shirt with a cut along the neck, perhaps, a “kosovorotka” is being introduced. These visnovkas themselves can be made on the basis of the knowledge of fragments in comirts from the Suzdal barrows.
We saved a lot of Russian men's shirts of the 13th-14th centuries, unfortunately, no. Nayranishi, known by archaeologists, the number of shirts can be seen until the end of the XV - honor. XVI Art. That childish shirt has grown from the Novospask tomb of the Romanov boyars, as well as the childish shirt from Suzdal. The crimson shirt of a child does not wake up in the form of grown-ups. Judging from the data of ethnography, the crest of human shirts was taken from rich regions of Russia from the 16th to the 20th centuries. It can be admitted that such a kriy with insignificant variations could have been created in the XIII-XV centuries. Synchronous image-creating dzherel tsієї hypotheses cannot be compared.
The basis of the shirt is made up of double folds according to the rolling of the pieces of the canvas (stand), at home, a round comir is cut through. In front of the gate is a vertical rosette - in the center or left-handed. The width of the linen homespun did not exceed 40-50 cm, so that in order to bring the shirt to the required width of the sleeve, trochs were cut down to the arm, and straight sidewalls were sewn into the sides. For greater freedom, small blades were sewn in between the sidewalls and the frame. Before the shirt, at the upper part of the middle, sometimes they sewed a lining (underlay) - a straight piece of fabric, which ends with tricots on the chests and backs. The sleeves of the shirt were cut straight or at the wrist. In the rest of the fall, the blades were folded down to the sleeves, and by the same token, the sleeve was expanded at the armhole. To ensure the freedom of the hands between the sleeves and inserts, square pieces of fabric (lasts) were sewn in. The collar and the opening of the shirt were closed with one or the other dekilkom gudzikami.
At the same time, it is not necessary to turn on the other side of the man's shirt, also in Russian ethnography - with beveled sidewalls. Cholovichi shirts of this cut were wider in Western Europe in the XII-XIII centuries. the one at Byzantium.
The widest seam for sewing a tailored garment, judging by archeological knowledge, is French (white). It is the best way to sew the details of a tailor-made garment with such a seam. The edges of the sleeves, the hem, the hem of the neckline puffed the two in the middle and puffed it up.
At the top of the shirts, middle bottom pants of the middle of archeological signs, you can see some fragments, which can be interpreted. These kriy can be seen only with the help of the image-creating dzherel and ethnographic tributes, and as well as the archeological knowledge of pants from the sovereign powers of Russia. The lower trousers, judging by the exemplary dzherel, were long to the tassel or short. Images of such lower pants can be used, for example, on the Novgorod fresco "Khreshchennya" (XII century) from the Church of the Savior on Nereditsa.
Looking out from the anatomy of the human body, we can boldly declare that all human pants (like pants in paziriktsiv, which were saved (IV-III centuries BC) and up to ethnographic Russian trousers) looked approximately the same - two pants and similar inserts . The inserts were straight-cut or tri-cut. The trousers could sound down to the bottom, and in the mountains they could expand with the help of additional wedges. On the quilts of the trousers, trim the cord. Ethnographers see pants with wide and narrow croque. Trousers with narrow croque were handy in the rural state, and perhaps such trousers could be worn by city dwellers. Trousers with a wide croque (wide cloak) were necessary for the leaders, warriors, and also for craftsmen, whose work was tied to various physical rights. Fully immovirnim є i crіy pants in a similar manner, vіdomy z XIII Art. - with wide, sounding to the bottom trouser legs and two wedges - inserts between them. Such a crion of trousers is familiar to Russian ethnographers, but it’s also worth noting that this crij, like I was calmly speaking, has taken root in the Russian population.
It is demonstrative that ethnographers recorded the different types of pants they spawned with each other. It’s quite impressive that even in the Middle Ages in Russia in a man’s suit, they suddenly wore different pants. The country's kriy lay not only in the tradition in the other region, but also in the influx of foreign fashion, and also could practicality. For example, pants “with a wide crotch” were suitable for the top, with a straight-cut hem, which was sewn in a straight thread or diagonally. A city dweller, a craftsman, who does not often sit on top of a horse, went with trousers “with a narrow cut”. In addition, the edge of the pants was stale in the width of the fabric. Llyana fabric, zіkana on a horizontal weaving verst, did not sound over the width of 50 cm.
Don’t forget that the population of the old Russian places was no less than words. Therefore, it is of particular interest to make the materials of archeology and ethnography of the Finno-Ugric peoples, which are words and phrases. At the link with the cym, you can vikoristovuvat archaic kriy man's trousers of the Mordovians. Tim is bigger, that the edge of the traditional Mordovian pants, in principle, does not differ from the Russian ones.
So, maybe, the upper pants were covered in such a way. Food about the dressing of panchokh in a man's suit in Ancient Russia XIII-XIV cent. є debatable. In Europe in the XIII century. buli vіdomі dovі panchokhi (shosi), yakі pіdv'yazuvalis up to a special belt or lower pants. In Byzantium, under the Western European influx, in the XIII century. just like that, the fashion for one-bar panchokhi leggings expanded. Below, for the sake of alignment, a Western European miniature of the 13th century was placed. that fragment of a Bulgarian fresco of the 13th - 14th centuries.
Judging by the Russian image-making dzherel, panchokhs in Russia were known. On the gates of the Suzdal Rizdvyany Cathedral (1230 pp.) there are images of people with swarthy panchokhas. Such panchokhs themselves have images of words on the miniatures of the Heidelberg manuscript of the Saxon mirror (early 13th century). Smugast panchohi from Western European archeology, zokrema, excavations near the Tartu metropolitan area among the numerical fragments of textiles of the 13th century. swarthy panchokhas made from thin woolen fabric were found. Vrahovoyuchi, what about Tartu in the XIII century. there were more words of the yansk population, it is possible that the panchokhs found were words to the yanin.
On the Russian image-creating dzherels, most often on the feet of people, we wear clothes that we swear. However, dressing up for the release of the upper garment closes the stretch from the waist to the knees, not allowing panchoks to be seen on them or pants.
We still don’t have archeological knowledge of the middle Russian panchos, just like the knowledge of pants. At the prince's pohovanni kіntsa XII - the ear of the XIII century. in the Martirievskaya porch of the Sophia Cathedral in Novgorod, on the stump on the quilted and gomelk tassels, especially in the area of the knee joint, fragments of one-coloured fabric were preserved, in some places the shape was rounded, which repeats the shape of the nig. Moreover, two balls of fabric were found: the upper ball of lacerations from the tov's visceral seam fabric with great rapport, and the inner (lining?) - from a thin seam without a visor (Sidov Vl. 2008. S. 64-89).
On the basis of this knowledge, it is not possible to say exactly what kind of pants are on the lining, or maybe thin bottom pants, and maybe upper ones. The tight-fitting form of this dress allows you to put it on just like it was panchoks, similar to Western European shosses.
Tsіkavy material for reflection on the cob icon of the XIV century. "St. George in Life". On the hallmarks of the icon, a human robe is depicted realistically. They turn on themselves a clear difference in the image of the clothes for them. Below is a fragment of two hallmarks. On one of the warriors, pants are clearly depicted, tied up to the knee with windings of those shoes. And the axis itself is depicted on another warrior - did not understand. It is quite possible that panchokhi and shoes are tight on the legs. It is demonstrative that the icon painter presented on the hallmarks of various variants of a human robe for women, which is typical for old Russian painting.
The successors who reconstruct the complex of the old Russian costume, as a rule, give priority to the pants, relying on ethnographic data and on the term “spoil”, which is guessed in the letter dzherel. However, the word tse gained the meaning of pants in the last period. In the XIII-XIV centuries. the word "spoil" meant clothes in a flash. For example, the spiritual diploma of the Grand Duke Ivan Kaliti (ear of the XIV century) says: “And the port of my sin to my Semyon is a blackened casing and a woman’s, a cap of gold.”
Well, well, scho from the analysis of the image-creating dzherel traced respect to such a detail, like a winding. In quiet moods, if there are windings on the legs, they are better, pants are dressed in people. There, where the windings are not visible, but the fabric still lies snugly up to the foot, more visible for everything, images of old panchoks, similar to European shosses. In vipadkas, if people are depicted wearing chobots, they can wear panchoks, or pants tucked into chobots. Possibly, the advantage of this other kind of clothing was due to the influence of fashion, material prosperity (in the “panchokhs” you can hear the images of people in rich clothes) or practicality.
Top dress of a city dweller of average prosperity (militia)
Judging by the iconic jackets, white undershirts, the men wore top colored shirts with contrasting decorations on the neck and sleeves. The dovzhina of human shirts in Ancient Russia, judging by the image, was rіzna. Forgive me, the people of that war are most often depicted in shirts that are up to the knee (they look like a half-length) or a little lower.
Colored shirts were clearly placed up to the front, short robe. For city dwellers of moderate prosperity, top shirts could be sewn from dewy fabrics (lyon, hemp), stuffed with natural dewy barvniks. For processing, a small amount of stitching is permissible. Archaeological evidence confirms that shovkovo ozdoblennya was most often taken from small claptices. The road of an imported, simple seam did not allow ordinary people to embellish clothes with large lines.
The top shirt was folded over, it was better for everything, just like the bottom one. The shape of the gate could be different. On the hallmarks of the icon post. XIV Art. "St. Georgiy z zhitієm »mustache people - and noble, and simple - dressed in shirts with a rounded coat and a small vertical cut in front. Such a shirt itself is on a miniature from the Chronicle of George Amratol, a Tver manuscript of the 13th century.
Rice. 10. Fragment of the icon “St. Georgy with life”, Novgorod, post. XIV Art. (levoruch) that fragment of the miniature from the "Chronicles of George Amratol", Tver, XIII cent.
Judging by the archeological evidence of fragments of commissaries near Suzdal, the collar of a man's shirt is of an instant buty different shape: round with a cut in front of a levo hand, in the form of a square of a trapezium. On a miniature from a handwritten book of the 13th century. images of a peasant in a shirt with a comir in a square shape.
At the Novgorod birch-bark letter No. 141 (XIII century), the main types of the city’s human robe were redeemed: “casing”, “svіta”, “sorocity”, hat, boots. The casing is a tricky robe, sharpening is an upper robe, a shirt is an undershirt. World - tse, maybe, the largest expansion of the upper clothes of the city dwellers in the last period.
Here it’s more accurate to clarify that the word “svіta” in Ancient Russia meant a suvoro-singing kind of robe, ce bulo the last word for the upper man's robe. The heirs of the old Russian costume sounded to be used for the designation of the upper eagle man's robe, the term "caftan". Prote, tse at the Russian letters dzherelah zustrіchaєetsya less from the end of the XV century. Until then, the word "sveta" was in use. Therefore, in this robot, we call it a retinue of a human eagle, or an overhead robe, which was worn over a shirt.
Judging by the image-creating dzherel, the light of life was up to the knee, or the three were gone. Honor was earned for the help of fellow loops and gudzikiv. Only people from the highest levels of society could allow their own mail from imported Western European cloth. Simple people wore cloaks of woven fabrics of the mystic weaving, natural colors, or were made with dewy barn.
Tsikavoy є znahidka of the upper garment of the XII century. from the tomb of the Monk Mikita the Stovpnik of Pereslavsky, like a bula was sewn from a large number of canvases of dark linen fabric with a width of about 35 cm. Stovpnik Pereslavsky // Abstracts of the final reports of the 2nd regional conference on the history of the Moscow region, dedicated to the 70th century of the Moscow Pedagogical University (M., 2000. P. 18-20).
Such a critique was taken from the human ode of the Old Believers until the XX century. The main cloth (stand) folds over at the shoulders, in front it opens like bramy to the hem. Behind the bed syagaє waist. From the waist to the new one, a custom-made cloth is sewn on.
The basis of the lining (pidґruntya) at the post offices can be confirmed exclusively by realistic images on the icon "Assumption of the Mother of God" (1300 rubles). A green retinue with a light lining is dressed on the man.
Rice. 13. Fragment of the icon "Assumption of the Mother of God", 1300 Recklinghausen Museum.
Dane dzherelo important and clear promalovannyam loops and gudzikiv on the undergarments of the robe. The cuddles are sewn on the right side, and the loops are sewn on the left side. Svіt on the image without a collar (“golosheyka”), rozstіbna, but with a zashtіbkoy vіd gate to the waist.
Cicave of the image of a man's outer garment is known on the Rostov icon on the cob of the XIV century. "The Trinity Old Testament". Two peculiarities are respected - a straight-cut (otherwise in the form of a trapezoid) bramy robe and the fact that it is not sharpened, laid on - a zipper goes like a bramy to the waist, and lower at the retinue is a solid "back".
Such a retinue is not obov'yazkovo can be buti ventilated at the waist. A possible option is to cut the mail with a frame with two panels of fabric with a seam in the middle of the back from the back and from the waist to the hem in front. Such a crіy imovіrno buv at the post office of the XII-XIII centuries, Fragments of such a boulevard were found at Vitebsk (Braichevska Y.A., Koledinskiy L.V. No. 3, Minsk, 2001. Z. 265-267).
A similar overlaid robe of images on a person from a miniature of a manuscript book of the 13th-14th centuries. Not surprised at the schematic image, all the same, you can clearly see the fasteners with buttonholes that go through the gate and, maybe, to the waist.
The man's upper robe was repeatedly changed. The belt won not only a utilitarian function (stretching clothes), but also ritual and social. "No cross, no belt" - so it seems to the Russian saying about a shameless and shameless person. Judging by the burial, the human belts were shkiryanim with metal details. The pobutovy (utilitarian) belt was embellished only with a buckle, or with a buckle of mules with calves, which buckle around the belt parts. The butt of such a shkiryan belt can be used by a connoisseur from the Vyatich barrow of the 13th century. On the belt there were 2 separate rings and 4 middle clips, 2 on the skin ring.
An even simpler rose ring with a clip and a belt was known in the man-made end of the 13th century. near Moscow. Before the rozdіlovy kіlets could put different things - lower at pіhvakh, hamanets, different cases with handicraft tools.
Over the retinue in cold weather, the townspeople put on a cloak or robes of a cloak-like type. Capes are reconstructed for the materials of ancient Russian graves, which are fastened with brooches. Different ways of wearing are fixed: 1) from fastening on the neck or shoulder; 2) from the side of the zastіbkoy (during which one hand was left with a vomit). The most popular brooches in the XIII century. the pied-like spirals were left out - a round cut, lamellar parts, twists and brooches with a bow.
On the Russian image-creating dzherels of the pre-slidzhuvan period, straight-cut cloaks and rounded cloaks are worn.
At the letter dzherelas, a sprig of cloaks is seen. Most often, the names are called “myatel”, “votola”, as well as princely cloaks - dragged that cat. Let's talk about the first two types of cloaks, the shards of the specific elements of the princely costume in this case are not seen.
Cape-moatl, ymovirno, appears in the XII century. she lives up to the XIV century. The words "myatl" came from the old Russian language, mabut, from the middle upper nymetska - in the mantel (Latin mantum) - a kind of upper garment, a cloak. Europe is well aware of the images and archeological knowledge of cloaks with a round shape. It is possible that such cloaks in Russia were called “meatl”. First, this term is used in the Novgorod dzherels of the XII century.
On the little one below, for the butt, two middle-sized cloaks with a round shape are pointed - a royal cloak, dating from the XII century, and a simple one, dating from the XIV century. Ymovіrno, like a lot of other elements of the costume, the whole cloak, from the Byzantine necks, from the back of the head belonging to the clothes of the nobility, and then expanding in wide versions of the population. Tse, better for everything, the durability of the raincoat in operation.
In Russia, it is not known to complete the great fragments of cloaks, sufficient for their reconstruction. Sounds like archaeologists know only small fragments of linen fabric. Naytsіkavіsha znahіdka — fragments of a cloak (imovіrno) from a human burial of the 12th century. (Pidmoskovny mounds of Vyatichiv). This is a fragment of fabric of blue (or green) color and embroidered with orange-red threads. The fabric is lined, linen weave, handmade weaving. Embroidered vikonan in the technique "behind the rachunk" (Orfinska O. V. Novosilki 2. Results of the research on textiles of the XII century // Archeology of the Moscow Region Materials of the scientific seminar Vip. 8. - M., 2012. P. 129).
From the upper winter clothes of people, the casing of the letter dzherelakh is most often covered. Everyone wore casings - from princes to chents.
AT in some human burials of the Upper Volga (burial of the last century X - XIII centuries) there was recorded an excess of a sheepskin robe, dressed with a hutra in the middle. On one of the fragments, a loop of a shkiryan tasmka was preserved (Stepanova Yu. V. Davnorusky funeral costume of the Upper Volga. - Tver, 2009). S. 58.)
AT Yaroslavl in mass burials, which the Tatars lost their place after 1238, the archaeologists knew fragments of hooded, lined and lined robes and headdresses.
For the reconstruction of the winter clothes of ordinary townspeople, the best choice of sheepskin is the most precious and warm material. Khutryanogo robe XIII cent. we didn’t reach us, the most early winter clothes that we saved was the sheepskin coat of hegumen Kiril Bilozersky (early XV century). A simple, straight edge of this garment allows you to make it as an eye-catcher for the reconstruction of an early winter garment. Looking back at what people wear the simplest fur coats, which clothes can be reconstructed at the time of the reconstruction of the costume of a middle-class city dweller.
Rice. 21. Sheepskin coat of hegumen Kiril Bilozersky. Cob. XV Art. (Romanenko E. Everyday life of the Russian middle-class monastery. - M., 2002. Colour. inset).
For the protection of hands in the cold, they wore mittens, knitted with a bare thread of woolen threads, or mittens from tanned coats (tanned coats), or mittens, sewn from sheepskin, with a hood in the middle.
Archaeological evidence of knitted textiles, including mittens, can be considered as a utilitarian designation. At the end of the show, a rough knitting of a twisted thread from the input of a woolen yarn. In this case, it should be noted that the very knitting for knitting of a different sort of syrovin led to the fact that the texture of the weave was reduced to a small amount of fluff and fluff, that in the process of wearing it was called and turned into a story, that they were even better protected in the cold.
Upper robe of a possible city dweller (warrior of prince chi boyar)
Covering the main types of a human robe, buv, maybe, however, all the versions of the mіsk suspіlstvo. Only more details were taken into account, mainly processing, and, obviously, more possible people could afford more expensive, richly colored fabrics. Sound the wars on Russian miniatures and icons depicted on colorful shirts.
Wanting to see the images of the warriors in white shirts under the shirts, but there are fewer such images. Dovzhina shirts on the warriors are still the same - up to the knee or the troch dosha.
The embellishment of the robe is the most wide, which demonstrates the status of a person, we were nimist and commissary. Naprikintsi XII - post. XIII Art. The elements of the costume expanded widely throughout the territory of ancient Russia, including the surrounding lands. To know them among the buried of the princely-boyar middle class, and among the rich buried of the townspeople and villagers (Saburova M.A. Standing commanders and "namist" in the old Russian odeyaz // Serednyovichna Rus. - M., 1976. Z. 226230).
Obviously, the vent or the sewing of the komіrets-stіyku mi bachimo on the men depicted on the mermaid bracelet from Ryazan (the end of the 12th half of the 13th century).
The largest collection of fragments in comirs resembles the funeral of the end of the XI - mid-XII centuries. necropolis of the river Suzdal (Saburova M.A., Elkina A.K. Details of the ancient Russian clothes for the materials of the necropolis of Suzdal // Materials from the middle archeology of Pivnichno-Skhidnoy Rus. - M., 1991. S. 53-77). Here, for the butt, there will be more than deyakі komіri from excavations, which they saved well.
Most often, not only in Suzdal, but in other old Russian places, com- Їх can be divided into two types: 1) stіyka, embellished with two lines from the front side of the collar; 2) a stitch, embellished with a solid line, which was ruffled around the neck. The stitches were small in size and the left-handed fastening, so in the first turn, the stitches and fabrics that they embellished were of different sizes: the right-handed thief and the yogo center were embellished with a larger detail, and the left-handed one was less. On the left short side of the gate, loops were sewn, and to the right side - kudzicki with an oval eyelet.
At the person buried (from mound 33), 2 golden-weaved lines were found. Braided stitch ornament. On the right and in front of the stitch there was a line with a length of 14.5 cm, a zigzag one - 7.5 cm. The width of the stitch was 1.7 cm. Behind the rose, perpendicular to the second stitch, a fragment of a similar stitch, 2.3 cm long, is sewn on. The height of the stitch is 4 cm. In this order, the lower part of the comir bov is made of a red seam, and the upper part is embellished with a gold-woven stitch. On the upper edge of that rosette of wines, they were sheathed in dark red twill. Komir used to lay birch bark, which created the zhorstka basis of the stalk. On the back of the birch bark, fragments were revealed, as well as rough cloths of linen weave - obviously weaving a robe.
At the person buried in the Bezkurgan burial ground, a cloak made of suture fabrics on a birch bark was revealed. Size of the larger fragment - 13 cm; smaller - 5 cm; the height of yoga is close to 3 cm. On the upper edge of the bula was a smug blue seam. Vaughn bula was embellished with gold thread sewing at the look of the lunar ridges uphill. Under the embroidered cladding there was a smooth smuga with a scarlet-coloured fabric; Tsikavo, that the commissar was chosen from small shmatkiv seams, and the seams were carefully attached. On the left side of the larger fragment, 3 oval gudziki were sewn with threads of red color. The stench is made of gilded bronze. An insignificant fragment of a scarlet seam of linen weave was saved under the birch bark, obviously, like a robe.
Komіrets with a similar embroidery was revealed in one person's honor. Komіrets was folded from the smug of birch bark, mіtsno pressed on the shiї of the buried one, on which there were shmatochki seam of red color. A gudzik made of gilded bronze was found in the opening of the gate. Rozmir smugi brahmi 10 x 1.5 cm. On the seam, there is an embroidered ornament with gold and seam threads. Shitya was formed from low crescents (9 pieces were saved); animal ridges uphill and crenellations over them; there were embroidered mugs between the moons at the bottom. According to the rose of gold, 2 moons rose, one above the other. A fragment of sheathing with taffeta of red color was saved. Under the comir buv tlin in the form of coarse fabrics of linen weave.
At the burial place of a man in barrow 86, an excess of brahmi with rose gold was revealed, and 1 oval-shaped dudzichok made of bronze was found. Komir buv zrobleniy іz shovka chervony koloru and podklady with birch bark. On the seam, there is a embroidered ornament near horizontally ruffled "S"-visible figures with pagons on the curls. Ornament with upper edge and rose. Rozmir details komira - 17 x 3 cm.
Krim komirtsiv-stiyok, near the Suzdal burial mounds, komiri was revealed in the shape of a square. Similar komiri were made out with a line from the front side of the robe or a line along the entire perimeter of the gate. At the pohovanni їkh zazvichiy know lower for the neck ridges.
At the person buried (in kurgan 12) a gold-woven line with an ornament was revealed near a braided line. Vaughn bula horizontally, over the clavicle of the buried. The size of the stitch is 10 x 2.8 cm. Under the left edge there was a gold-woven stitch of greater width, with a size of 7 x 4 cm. Rozrіz the gate descending lower for the left key. Under the lines, birch bark was preserved. The edge of the gate is entwined with red taffeta. On the lines, there are round patches of barley white masa with a diameter of 6 mm, like embellishment, which was not saved, maybe pearls.
At the person buried (near mound 54, grave 3) a golden-woven line with a zigzag-like ornament was revealed, which was decorated with a straight-cut vorit. Under it there was a birch bark, folded, like a gold-woven stitch, on the corners of the brama under a straight hood. Evil gate to the horizontally ruffled part of the sewn-on fragment of the same stitching of the zipper. Here, 2 empty rattles were found with a streak near the structural integrity of the streak. The lining of the gate was left-handed and rolled down the rose and stooled with udziks. On the river gudzikiv, on the left side of the line, loops were sewn on. On the inner edge of the gate is sheathed with red taffeta. Rozmir edging 15 x 14 cm. Stitch width - 2 cm.
The person buried (near mound 74) was found to have a large seam with stitches. Fragment size 17 x 2.8 cm. From the bottom to the new one, an oval-shaped gudzichok made of gilded bronze was attached. In addition, under the fabric there was birch bark. between seam fabric and birch bark, traces of linings from the canvas were found. Shovkov's fabric is adorned with a blue color (indigo). The entire area of the chest of the buried one is also pofarbovannya in the blue color - it is possible, the person is in odiaz z oplichchiam and sewn comor. Shitya vikonans with a golden thread and a seam. On the fabric there is a line composition made of mirror-stitched "S" - prominent figures made of pagons. The contour of the ornament is embroidered with a seam of red color. With a red shovk, the pagons are sealed. The main vіzerunok vykonaniya golden thread.
All forms of komiriv, found on the necropolis of the river. Suzdal, in the home of the traditional Russian dress of the XIX-XX century and taman shirts of a different cut. The largest group of savants is the commissar at the sight of the stewards. Їx is characterized by the presence of a hard basis; ornamental swag or swag at the sight of gold-woven stitching and trim on the top of the gate and rose gold; presence of piercings with a neck on the lower unformed edge; Gudzik according to the rose of evil. The height of the stand is three to five centimeters.
Piznіsha znahіdka similar komіrtsya-stіyki on shirts with an axial vertical cut resemble from the prince's consecration of the end of the XII - soil of the XIII century. in the Martyr's porch of Sophia's Cathedral in Novgorod (Sedov Vl. V. Pokhovannia 7 in the Martyr's porch of Sophia's Cathedral in Novgorod and gold embroidery from the images of the Ascension of Oleksandr the Great // Moskovskaya Rus. - M., 2008. P. 64-89). Novgorod, apparently, came from Volodymyr-Suzdal Rus, bringing native fashion from them.
In this case, it was necessary to guard that it was not possible to copy for the reconstruction of the costume to wind a rich warrior with gold embroidery from the images of Oleksandr the Great. Whose plot has its deep tradition and can be recited thoughtlessly. However, it bears respect for itself, similar to the decoration of the brahma and rose on the famous textiles from the princely burial in Sofia and the image on the Tver mermaid bracelet of the XII - XIII centuries. Only on the image on the man is a shirt without collars (“goloneck”).
Komiri - stilettos in Russian costumes were taken to be worn on ethnographic kosovorotkas, moreover, on some shirts, like on old-fashioned zrazka, on the right side of the gate there were sewn gudzik, and on the left - a thread loop. Ymovirno, a shirt-kosovorotka with homespun fabric with a shabby komirts was an old traditional robe, like it was worn in the pre-Mongolian hour and was kept by the Russian population in the central regions of Russia.
Found at the burial ground, the shape of the gate at the looking square and the trapezium in the house is no less than the ancient Russian image-making dzherel. Ethnographers recorded similar gates of a man's shirt among the middle Russian old-timers in Siberia. Vіn maє the shape of a square, sheathed with a vіzerunkovy stitch, folded under a straight kutom on the sides of the width and maє rozrіz zlіva, moreover, the sheathing of the left side of the gate is lowered, like a bottom according to the rose, like in archaeological knowledge from Suzdal. Shirts with a similar shape of the gate are taken from the Sovereign Historical Museum and the Museum of Ethnography of the Peoples of the SRSR.
Tsikavo, which vorit with a vertical rose is evil in the royal dalmatics of the XII century, like a bula was sewn according to the Byzantine fashion. It is possible that such a crested gate came to Russia from Byzantium, as if inheriting the clothes of the nobility. Undoubtedly, shirts with a similar embellishment of the neckline were the best, Christmas attire.
As far as the front mail, then from the first sight the dress of information is more, lower for the working, casual version. Orniy kriy mail, with a zest bramy to the waist, with a ventilated "back", folded into folds, can be reconstructed on the basis of low archeological knowledge. On the cob of the 1980s. Buv excavations Chingulsky barrow kіntsya XII-cob XIII c. on the river birch. Dairy. This was the best burial of a noble middle-class warrior-nomad. Fragments of six “caftans” were known to the buried – how the cloaks are called by the cloaks. Two "caftans" were reconstructed in the distance in all details. Doslidniki z'yasuval tsikava detail - clothes buv Russian campaign.
The funeral of the robes of the robes is made of a thin worm-red seam with inserts of gold embroidery on a blue aphid. There are embellishments all over the front, the upper parts of the sleeves are op'yastya. The ornament is a grid of gold plaques in the crosshairs, and in the middle of the rhombuses are sewn gold mugs with faces inscribed in them, some of them are girlish, some are angelic. The gate of the captana and the round cap are lined with gilded plaques and inserts from gems. Down along the contour of the viserunk in the ide of the perlin.
The other clothes on the floor are luxurious, before embellishments on the face of the garments. The fabrics and gold threads were of the Constantinopolitan style, and the embroidery was clearly Russian, and before that, on the other caftan, there was a word-Janian inscription. In this rank, let me remind you that the clothes were being prepared at the courts of the Russian princes, or in one of the old Russian monasteries for the prayer of one of them - a rich man, perhaps a prince, named after his baptismal name. Ymovіrno, that dressed like a gift, bringing him into a temple, which he knew in a place on the pivdni of Russia, near the Polovtsian steppe. As a result, the raid of nomads on the site and the looting of the church were taken into the hands of the Polovtsian khan and were buried together with him (Otroshenko V., Rassamakin Yu. ).
It dawned on me that the dress from the Chingulsky mound is something rich for a combatant. However, these edges can be twisted for sewing suites from modest fabrics.
Closest to Chingulsky Odyaz in the cut of “cloth from Izyaslavl”.
A similar garment - with a ventilated back, folded into folds, can be seen on the bas-relief of the Dmitrovsky Cathedral in Volodymyr.
Another archeological evidence of a robe, frilly at the waist, with folds resembling from Toropets, burnt in the other half of the 13th century. after the Lithuanian heap. The bula cloth is sewn from woven fabrics of different textures. The top of the cloth is made of linen weave, the bottom is made of twill weave. There are folds on some fragments. Good zberіgsya zvuzhenija up to the wrist sleeve with a lastivkoy. Details of the cloth are sewn with a “sewing stitch”. Unfortunately, the cloth was not restored, there is no house. Tobto tse moment buti like a short man's robe, so i dovga zhіnocha.
AT The Russian truth is supposed to punish the retinue of kravchini for the sake of the retinue: “It’s like a Swiss to create a retinue, not to be able to sew, but with anger, but to beat it, but the price of relief.” Tobto, they almost sewed on a professional cut. It is worth mentioning about the foldable coat of clothing, which means professional skills when writing, as well as about the singing social status of speech. Oshat retinues, sewn for prayers, were obviously the clothes of the local townspeople.
A special place for a man’s suit of a combatant was occupied by a typed belt - a belt, embellishments with metal plaques, and a whirlwind of some sort was made out with a belt tip. Oshatnye explanatory buckles are revealed by archaeologists in rich burials near the burial mounds of Vyatichiv.
The man's belt in Old Russia was an indicator of the status of a man - from the "verve" on the zhebrak to the golden belt on the prince. The combatant, judging by archeological knowledge, was given a skin belt with numerous overlays, a zipper with loops for hanging armor. The most recent research related to the recruiting belts is Murasheva V.V. Long-standing Russian belt recruiting embellishment (X-XIII centuries) - M., 2000. Having improved with this book, you can reconstruct the belt of the old Russian warrior in all details.
Dzherel's letters give us information about the cloaks of foreign townspeople. At birch-bark letter No. 776 (another half of the 12th century) it was guessed “a plow of the polo hryvnia”, which is expensive to finish. It is indicative that in the Treaty of Novgorod with the Gotsky coast and German places (1189-1199) there was a clause about a significant fine for wearing a cloak: “If it’s a hryvnia, then 3 hryvnia old.”
Judging from the dzherel, the city dwellers wore cloaks made of colorful cloth. "Blakitna blue-meat" is written in charter No. 131 from Torzhok (the end of the XII century). "Myatl rudavo", tobto chervoniy, to ask the Novgorodian brother Danilo to send him to the charter No. 765 (mid-XIII century).
The popularity of the cloak in a round shape in Russia is confirmed by the sculptures of the Dmitriev Cathedral near Volodymyr. On the human posts, one can clearly see a cloak of the same shape.
A special kind of “korzno” cloak, which is traditionally called a princely cloak in ancient Russian costumes, judging by the Novgorod birch bark letters, it was the cloak of the city dwellers. Korzno zgaduetsya at letters No. 638 (end of the XII century) and at letters No. 648 (early XIII century). For the first time, there is a need to sew a corset on a prayer like a Novgorodian, moreover, the scarf may be stripped of his own cloak. In another charter, it is not appropriate to enter the list of subjects that Vaska should lie down, so it is clearly not about a noble person. At the end of the period, the cloak-basket, maybe, go out of the living room, the shards do not grow larger at the necks. I don’t know anything about it, but it’s probably true that the thought of the ancient Russian costume, which would give the name “korzno” that image of the prince’s cloaks on Russian icons of the XIII-XIV centuries. Judging by the letters of the dzherel, including the princely cloaks, they were “kots” that “dragged”.
For the cold season of the rich, the townspeople sewed their own hutra, covered the beast with cloth. Coated with fur coats, ymovirno, however, for all versions of the population, and decorative elements were a sign of prosperity. Russian bilins often have descriptions of vivacious gudziks on the fur coats of warrior heroes and merchants.
AT XIII Art. buli vіdomі in Russia and mittens - "mittens go away." Imovirno, this element of the costume came to Russia from Western Europe and is more or less accessible to any people. At the Smolensk treaty charter 1229 p. the mittens were chosen as the goods that they brought: “For the sake of the Volotsky mittens, let them go.” At the Hanseatic dzherelakh, mittens are placed next to the list of goods that are brought for trade to Novgorod.
AT for example XIII Art. the fashion of the Golden Ordi begins to penetrate into Russia. On the Russian image-creating dzherels, characters appear in the Tatar ode. Vtіm, a significant injection into the costume of the population of the Russian cities of the Golden Ordnian fashion is still worse.
vzuttya
On the vіdmіnu vіd odeagu, vzuttya pіd pod digging at the old Russian places, archaeologists often know about decent safety, which allows for an accurate reconstruction. Novgorod, Tver, Moscow, Suzdal, Ryazan have a rich collection of fragments and a whole range of sights. For the XIII century. characteristic is the variety of options for the city dwellers - pistons, shoes, shoes and shoes. On the image-creating dzherels, the color of the jacket (shoes and chobots) is depicted on people dressed in full dress.
Vzutya dressed not on bare feet, but on knitted scarves ("kopittsya") or on onuchi ("onucha", "onushta", "onuchi"). Judging by the image, they - tse vuzki dovgі fabrics of smuga, with which they wrapped the leg, like bi bandaging її - from the toes of the foot to the knee or from the ankle to the knee. At the vzuttya, they put in the clothes for the clothes. Archaeologists know such habits from the balls of the XII-XV centuries. near Novgorod.
The widest mouths of ordinary townspeople were pistons. They were prepared by professional craftsmen, and by home minds, often from already implanted chobits. The pistons were made from one piece of orphan or tanned cowl 2-4 mm. Mostly, the workpiece was cut in a rectangular or trapezoidal shape, from the sides of which parts of the slot were cut. Crisis and piercings smacked the remіnets, which is tight on the nose.
The pistons were simple and openwork. Just the pistons rise to a working, casual zuttya, openwork - to a more shaky, ceremonial zuttya, prepared by professional maisters. Until the end of the XIII century. openwork pistons come out of the living room.
The pistons were fastened on the noses for the help of long woolen or braided threads of cords. Cords were wrapped over onuch or knitted panchokh.
With an attacking look of the next, name the shoes - the shoe, which closes the leg no more than a tassel and pulls it to the foot with straps. Most often you know shoes with a top, cut from one piece of shkir. The seam at this time was on the inside of the foot. The sole of the shoes was sewn on with a stitch or a vivorit seam. The shoes were embellished with embroidered lace. In shoes, people are most often depicted on miniatures and icons of the 12th-14th centuries, and warriors are most often depicted in shoes.
Bigger folded edge on shoes made of a human burial from a barrow of the 13th century. Vtіm, the fact that the top of their sewing from three parts can be explained not by a simple style, but by the presence of a large shmatka of a large uniform.
Tsikava collection of childish fur coat XII-XIII cent. from m. Suzdal. A child vzuttya copied grown-up zrazki, to that znahіdki can win like a dzherelo during the reconstruction of a grown-up vzuttya.
Let's put it more folded up, scho s rich details, boules chobots. This is how the shkiryans call it out of the blue with freebies, that they cover their feet and homilka, and don’t make roses. In the pre-Mongolian hours, the chobots rarely grind. Chobots were status vzuttyam, yak could be afforded by the city dwellers. So at the shoes of the graves of the Novgorod posadnik Dmitro (Dmitro) Miroshkinich (1209) At the shoes on old Russian miniatures and icons depict princes, boyars, holy warriors. Ridshe - simple warriors.
At the XIII century. they made shoes of “soft” design - with a bottom sole, one or two balls of shkir, with a torso of 1.5-2 mm, with a rounded toe and a soft back. The details of such chobit stitches and vivorit seams were sewn.
Headwear and accessories before the suit
Another important element of a man's middle-class costume was a hat. The people wore hats not just for the cold weather, but as a show of belonging to a singing social group. From the silent fir, the following was saved - “A hat according to Senka”, so, at what stage of social gatherings a person is, you should wear a hat. The cap itself is a symbol, which was won by old Russian painters, if they wanted to show the status of a person depicted on a miniature or an icon. For example, to bring a princely hat (with a round head with a cunning headband) to bring to Svyatopolk the vbivtsi of Prince Boris - as a confirmation of a thorough work.
Therefore, it is unacceptable to include a princely type hat at the reconstruction of the costume of a simple city dweller or combatant. The most evidence-based type of headdress worn by ordinary townspeople is a felted cap. Possibly, such hats are guessed at the list of speeches of the Novgorodian Grishka (letter No. 141, XIII century). In one of the human graves of the Upper Volga, fragments of a headdress from the epoch were found (Stepanova Yu.
Novgorod has the most early knowledge of a povstyanoi hat before the 12th century. It's a pity that the hat was not found again, and the waste does not allow to reconstruct it again. Zokrema, it is impossible to say what were in her gates, but all the same she realized that she was wearing a cap-kovpak, in the house of image-creating dzherel.
Valyanі z povstі hats z vіdvoratami found in Berestі (XIII-XIV st.), Novgorod i Novgorod lands (XIII-XV st.) Near Novgorod in balls of the XIII st. a man's hat was found near a kovpak, 20.5 cm high. Almost without change, the type of hat appeared in the Russian village until the 20th century.
To the obov'yaskovyh accessories of a man's old-Russian costume one can see an explanation of the bottom of the bag. Archaeological knowledge of knives is obtained numerically from rich Russian places. Skladnisha on the right with pikhvami. Only in Novgorod, archaeologists selected a collection of woolly furs sufficient for typology.
The successor of the old Russian smithery, B. A. Kolchin, having designated that the knives are the same territorially for the species, so there are no significant distinctions for the hour. For the butt, we will bring knives from the collection of the Volodymyr-Suzdal Museum-Reserve.
During the reconstruction of the shkiryany belt bags, they sound up to the richest collection of archeological shkir of Veliky Novgorod. Prote varto pay respect to the lesser knowledgeable belt bags from the mounds near Moscow. In human burials of the XII-XIII centuries. fragments of skinny waist bags with metal parts were found. One of the bags contained an armchair and flint.
Armchair (armchair, flint and tinder) included up to the number of items necessary for a person, they were carried with them in a shoulder bag. For the XIII century. the most typical boules of the chair were of two types. Larger early "kalachopodіbni" armchair from the cob of the XIII century. get out of mass living.
AT the period of the entire middle ages, like in Russia, and in other lands, the universal explanatory gamanets (“purse”) became popular. Behind the form, that design of the wines guesses the pouch. The gamanets is of a rectangular shape, being prepared from one or two shmatkіv shkіri, sewn from both sides or from the sides and from the bottom, and at the upper part of the boules were opened for tightening with a cord, for the help of such a gamanets and pulled up to the waist. Such a hamanets, replacing the swirl, yogo, expanding the frills, swayed 14 divs, and height - up to 20 divs.
To the most important attributes of the costume of a Russian city dweller of the XIII century. nat_lny khrest abo icon. For XIII-XIV Art. in Russia, there were suvorikh church rules about Christian attributes. Christians, as archaeologists know, admire the great diversity of forms and materials. Ce i metal, i stone, i burshtin.
The wealthy city dwellers and noble people wore not just natіlnі crosses, but pectoral crosses-reliquaries (enkolpіoni).
Snake icons that came to Russia from Byzantium were a kind of embellishment. Christ, the Mother of God in silence, archangels, saints were depicted on their front side, and on the side of the front side - the “serpent's nest” that circular inscription was written to avenge the spell against ailments, lihomanok.
Earrings were also of the same human color. Men, on the vіdmіnu vіd zhіnok, in Rusі wore one earring at the left vіvі. So the man was buried in the Moscow region. a silver earring was found at the sight of a ring, bent in the second turn. The diameter of the earring is approximately 1 cm. Such a type of earring, an aloe with a middling dart, was found in a person buried in the 12th-13th centuries. near the Moscow region (Rosenfeldt R.L. Bityagivsk barrows// Radyansk archeology. No. 4, 1963. S. 217-220). Also, earrings were worn by people of different equals.
Similar earrings were found at seven burial places of the Upper Volga. They wore them just like that in one dress (Stepanova Yu. V. Davnorusky funeral costume of the Upper Volga. P. 63).
Bracelets at the XIII century. people at Russian places did not wear. Fingers served as the color of the hands. Of particular importance are the few persnі-druks, with which they “sealed” the documents of those different collections of valuable speeches. In the "Chronicle of George Amartol" (list of the XIII-XIV centuries) we read: "Having sealed your beetle, order to save it." Tobto, zhikovina (zhukovina) - a ring-druk or a ring with a shield.
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